Hoya 77mm R-72 Infrared Filter
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Used for photography with infrared films. lnfrared film is also sensitive to ultraviolet rays and the shorter wavelengths of the visible spectrum so it is necessary to filter out all but the infrared rays. R72 passes only infrared rays above 720nm RM90 passes only that above 900nm. Often used in crime detection, medical photography, detection of distribution of vegetation, etc. In ordinary photography with infrared film or infrared color film, the Y(K2), O(G), R(25A) and other filters can also be used to change the contrast or color effect.
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not like the other cheap fake filter I purchased before.
I have both Canon 400D that doesn't had Hot Mirror and Canon 7D that had a Hot Mirror to reflect IR light, I'll post a comparison later.
here's the setup I did to take the shot, but before that this is what you must carry with you.
1- DSLR Camera
2- Lens that support 77mm filter size. (consider that you may need Lens Hood for best quality)
3- IR Filter
5- Wire or Wireless remote
taking the shot:
1- take over exposed shot for the grass with your IR filter. (the healthy grass and faced to the direct sun are recommended)*
2- use the shot to make custom WB after that remove the IR Filter.*
3- attach your Camera to your Tripod.
4- setup the scene for the way you like and make sure you focus.**
5- Turn off the AF.
6- attach your IR filter and take a test shot with low Aperture like from F11 to 22 to see if there a Hot Spot in the middle or not, if yes it's better stick with aperture of F4 or higher.***
7- take your shots.
Note 1: I'm using a costume WB is for reference because it'll be so hard to see image washed with red, and with this way it'll be more accurate to see how shot gonna be.
Note 2: from my side my cameras able to Auto Focus while the filter is attached but it's still better to remove the IR filter for each scene and attach it again.
Note 3: if there's Hot Spot in the middle of the photo I have a bad news for you, you may need to replace your lens, but there's small solution is to use high Aperture (I usually using from F2.8 to F4, if you considering to buy new lens search for recommended lenses for IR photography.
before you start process the shots first you need to download Adobe DNG Profile Editor, you can find it easily by Google, you may need to do it once for each camera.
First.. Camera Calibration. (Only Once)
1- Open any good IR shot with Adobe Camera RAW.
2- don't do anything with the image other than putting the temperature to 2000.
3- click save button and save the shot as DNG format and close Adobe Camera RAW.
4- Open the Adobe DNG Profile Editor in same shot folder or desktop.
5- click File>>> Open DNG Image... then open your DNG file we saved before
6- click the Color Matrices tap.
7- in White Balance Calibration... but the Temperature to 2000.
6- click File>>>Export YOUR CAMERA NAME Profile.
7- save the profile to C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles.
Second.. Post Processing.
1- open any IR shot in Adobe Camera RAW.
2- in the right tools, go to the Camera icon or Camera Calibration.
3- from Camera Profile chose the profile we created before.
4- go to the first tab and now you can choose any number from Temperature or by White Balance tool by hitting I button from keyboard and choose any pixel from image that suitable to your taste.
5- Open the shot by holding Shift then click Open Object for we can modify the image in case when we need.
6- in Photoshop choose Channel Mixer... from the right tools.
7- in Red change the Value to 0 in Red and 100 in Blue.
8- in Blue change the Value to 0 in Blue and 100 in Red.
9- choose Hue/Saturation...
10- change from Master to Cyans.
11- change Saturation to -100
12- change the lightness to 100
13- work with your photo as much as you like.
what give is the basics, for more, google Infrared Photography tutorials and you'll find great learning stuff.
hope I was helpful.
As far as the product itself, it came sealed in your average filter box. My only complaint with it was that the filter box had some small broken pieces of plastic rattling around in there which initially worried me, but they were only making contact with the metal ring on the outside and so were not causing problems with the glass or coating. The filter itself feels fairly heavy and seems slightly thicker than my Kaesemann circular polarizing filter. I was most successfully able to focus my Nikon D810 by taking the filter off, autofocusing, then changing it to manual focus and placing the filter back on. Adjusting the aim on it could be accomplished by putting the camera into Live View, but any refocusing I did required that I remove the filter for a moment. I feel like the camera may be able to focus with it on if I find a subject with sufficient contrast (I was using trees in spotty light, so not ideal for testing that.) Hot spots were definitely a thing, but that's a known problem with using a normal lens for IR and is not a fault of the filter. The differences between "straight sunlight" and "cloudy sunlight" (3pm light) were tremendous and required quite of a bit of fiddling with shutter speed!
Attached are two copies of the same photo, which was taken during my first trial of the filter. The first is unedited, looking as it appears straight from the camera, and the second is after fiddling with it in Lightroom.
Basically you do this.
1. Put filter on lens.
2. Take a picture of brightly lit green grass or leaves. My camera took 30s exposure, f2, ISO 100, but it depends on how sensitive your camera is to infrared.
3. Set a custom white balance using that image.
4. View finder is useless because it's so dark, but I could use my LCD to frame and focus my shots. Funny enough, even without the visible light, auto focus still seemed to work okay.
5. Take the shot.
6. If you shoot in RAW, Adobe tools won't work with the RAW. They don't allow such an extreme white balance so make everything red. I used the Canon tools to take the raw and convert to TIFF. JPG out of camera would probably be fine since it bakes the white balance in, but I didn't try it.
7. Take the TIFF into photoshop and use the Channel Mixer to swap the red and blue channels. Then use the curves or levels to adjust to taste.
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